Dog Behavior

Positive Reinforcement
Positive reinforcement dog training is a humane method of teaching your dog to perform behaviors using a reward such as treats, attention, verbal praise, etc. Rewarding appropriate dog behavior makes that behavior more likely to occur in the future and is one of the most powerful tools you can use to shape or change your dog’s actions.

Positive reinforcement dog training not only teaches your dog what behaviors you desire in a humane manner, it also creates stronger bonds between you and your dog.

Attention Seeking Behavior
Attention seeking behavior is one of the most common canine management problems. The high social nature of dogs contributes to attention seeking behavior which can take the form of pawing, pushing, jumping, mouthing, barking at, eliminating in front of, or any other behavior which the dog has deduced will get your attention. Attention seeking behavior may be either active or passive, and the attention it elicits may be either negative or positive.

To prevent attention seeking behavior from developing, always ask your dog to do something (sit, stay, come, etc.) before getting anything (food, walks, attention, petting, toys, etc.) Ignore any attempts to get your attention (even negative attention) through undesirable behavior! This means that if your dog jumps on you to get your attention, instead of pushing the dog down, shrug the dog off and walk away. Do not give your dog any attention until she has exhibited a desirable (sit on command) behavior. Your goal is to teach your dog acceptable forms of attention getting (such a sitting, lying quietly, etc.). In order to succeed, you will need to praise and reward the dog whenever she is calm and relaxed.

Barking
Many dogs with barking “problems” are merely exhibiting normal canine behavior in response to environmental stimuli (i.e. sights, sounds, and scents). Some breed types such as terriers and scent hounds have been bred to bark more readily than others. Because barking is a self-reinforcing behavior, it is important to teach you dog what type of barking you find acceptable right from the start. To do this, you must first discover what causes your dog to bark. Solving this problem may be as simple as eliminating the source. For example, if your dog barks out the window at other dogs, you might try leaving the curtains/blinds closed and using a radio/TV to mask outside sounds.

If your dog barks in your presence, you can begin to teach him a more acceptable behavior in place of the barking, such as sitting on command. You will need to consistently interrupt (using a stimulus such as water, a loud noise, head halter, etc.) your dog as soon as he begins to bark and immediately redirect him to another activity. As soon as your dog engages in the acceptable activity, praise and reward him. Never give your dog any direct attention (including verbal or physical corrections) while he is barking. Some dogs regard even negative attention (such as being scolded) as desirable.

There are a few quick solutions to undesirable barking. Ultrasonic anti-bark collars are not effective on most dogs. The stimulus of barking is just more rewarding then the deterrent. “Shock” or “electronic impulse” collars work by causing pain and can heighten anxiety. If you need a humane way to control your dog’s barking when you are away, you may want to consider a citronella anti-bark collar (such as the ABS Anti-Bark Collar™). Citronella collars emit a citrus oil mist in response to the dog’s bark that discourages the dog from barking without causing fear or pain. While you still need to address the cause of your dog’s barking, citronella collars can be a useful tool is preventing excessive barking.

Digging
Digging in yards should be curtailed by constant supervision and plenty of exercise. Many dogs will dig out of boredom. If you think this is the case, increase exercise and play time, and decrease unsupervised outside time. Some breeds are bred to dig (many terriers), so redirection to an allowed digging area should be considered. Never directly punish your dog for digging. Remember, for many breeds, this is a very natural activity. If you can catch your dog in the middle of digging, interrupt him with an indirect stimulus, and then redirect him to acceptable behavior. Praise profusely once he engages in good behavior.

Mouthing and Chewing
Mouthing and chewing are most common in young puppies and new dogs in the household, especially in play and while teething. It’s up to you to teach your puppy or dog what is acceptable and what is not. First of all, dogs must learn to inhibit their bite before they are 4 months old. Normally, they would learn this from their mother, their littermates and other members of the pack. However, sometimes puppies are taken away from this environment before the learning is complete, so we must take over the training. If your dog or puppy mouths on your hand, make a quick, high pitched yipping noise to simulate what your dog’s littermate would do if they mouthed him too hard. Discontinue any playing and leave the room; do not look or give any attention to your dog. Eventually, he will learn that the mouthing behavior makes playtime and attention come to a quick stop, which is undesirable to him.

There are several anti-mouthing and anti-chewing products on the market. Apple cider vinegar, mouthwash, and Bitter Apple spray can all be put on anything you do not want your dog to mouth or chew on (hands, ankles, chair legs, etc.) to discourage him from mouthing or chewing.

To discourage chewing, make sure you have fully puppy proofed your house so that nothing valuable or dangerous is on the dog’s level for him to get in to. Make sure you constantly supervise your new dog or puppy so that you can teach him what is acceptable for him to chew on, and what is not. Do not let your new dog or puppy wander around the house getting into whatever he pleases. Keep your new dog or puppy with you or safely confined to a dog friendly area (crate, bathroom, etc.) Once your dog is has learned what not to chew on in a room, introduce him to another room. Do not let your animal have run of the house until you are sure that it is safe to do so. Most puppies aren’t ready for a full run of the house while you are gone until 1 year of age.

Destruction
Destruction can include normal chewing/teething or play behavior. Preventing destruction by limiting access to vulnerable items is the easiest way to deal with this problem. Redirecting chewing to appropriate toys, increasing exercise, and providing stimulating playthings (Buster Cubes™, stuffed Kongs™, etc.) can also help eliminate inappropriate destructive behavior. Many plants are poisonous and should be kept out of reach of your new dog. Never directly punish your dog for destructive behavior. If you can catch your dog in the middle of destructing, interrupt him with an indirect stimulus, and then redirect him to acceptable behavior. Praise profusely once he engages in good behavior.

Jumping
Jumping is a habit that is important to break early on. Your dog should learn as soon as possible that jumping is not an appropriate way to great people. When your dog jumps on you, make sure you do not give him any attention (even yelling) and turn your back to him. Only turn around if your dog sits or stands nicely. He will realize that in order to get attention, he needs to sit or stand nicely. Try to get as many people to follow this same rule with your dog. You may want to put your dog on a leash when visitors come over so that you can control him more.

Inappropriate Playing
Mouthing, jumping, mounting, and rough play need to be discouraged from the very first day you bring your new dog home. Remember that what is cute and playful in a puppy can be annoying and dangerous in an adult dog. Teach your dog to only play with toys (not hands, feet and other body parts). Ignore all inappropriate playing and avoid rough play. Teach your dog rules for play (drop, stop, etc.) and constantly reinforce them.

Aggression
Aggression is a very serious behavior problem and is surprisingly common in dogs. It is a myth that only “viscous” dogs bite or that once a dog bites, the only alternative is to put her to sleep. Virtually all species of animal have a variety of aggressive behaviors in their repertoires, to defend themselves from perceived threats, as well as to compete for resources such as food, mates and sleeping locations.

When a dog is uncomfortable around strangers, or dislikes certain strangers, such as men, kids or uniformed people, it is usually because he has not been fully socialized. When dogs threaten or bite family members, the usual suspects are resource guarding and poor tolerance of body handling. This behavior frequently pops up in our pet dogs, in the form of possessiveness of anything from food dish and bones to sofas, tissues and even garbage! Luckily, there are exercises owners can do to make their dogs much more relaxed around resources. It is best to consult a trainer with help for aggression issues. Handle-ability problems are also common in pet dogs. Many will be naturally reluctant to have their bodies touched or manipulated, in certain places or in certain ways. If they are not taught to accept and enjoy handling, they may threaten or bite in this context. Gradual exercises can desensitize dogs to being patted, hugged, grabbed by their collars and to tolerate having their feet, mouths, tails and bodies handled and restrained. Dogs that have serious difficulties with other dogs often have similar issues as dogs that have problems with people: resource guarding (against dogs), undersocialization (to dogs) and poor bite inhibition. Dogs will also occasionally learn that it is fun to bully other dogs. Treatment efforts may include desensitization and counter conditioning, remedial socialization, prompting and selective reinforcement of more polite on-leash manners and changing the consequences for dogs that bully. Dogs are highly social, to the point of compulsion. When most dogs spot another dog on the street, they are highly motivated to approach and investigate. Being on leash restricts their ability to do so. The resulting frustration translates into increased excitement and agitation, which can be alarming to the owner, who may then deliberately restrict access, tense up before encounters or even punish the dog. This starts an association between the sight of dogs and frustration as well as owner tension and possibly punishment. A vicious cycle is then born that often culminates in thwarting-related or “barrier frustration” aggression. This, combined with owner-proximity induced resource guarding, is why so many dogs are more aggressive on leash than off.

Fights between dogs that live together are very common. Dogs compete for resources such as food, bones, toys, owner attention and sleeping spots and have individual preferences and moods. Many dogs are also sensitive about proximity and body-contact. If the fights are non-injurious (i.e. you are not at the vet’s following each fight having one or both dogs sutured), there are a number of options, including non-intervention. Fights are usually context-driven and, once the triggers are uncovered through detective work, some combination of obedience routine to manage the dogs, selective reinforcement of better behavior, changing emotional associations (“good things happen to you when SHE’S around”) and time-out penalties for fights will bring relative peace. If the fights are damaging to either participant, efforts must be much stricter, with an airtight management regime usually being necessary.

Prevention of aggression is much easier than treatment. Socialize your puppy to as large of a variety of people and friendly dogs as possible. Make it fun with lots of treats and playing. Practice anti-guarding exercises. Teach puppies to bite softly by using time-out consequences for hard bites before forbidding all play-biting. Handle your puppy all over and make it fun with treats and praise. Find and enroll in a reward-method puppy kindergarten class that covers these exercises and allows free puppy play. Maintain socialization and comfort around resources and handling in adult dogs with regular practice. Maintain your dog’s soft mouth by insisting she take treats gently and by carefully monitored and controlled physical games, such as tug. Allow your dog regular opportunities to socialize with other dogs.

Separation Anxiety
Dogs are pack animals that prefer to be with others. When left alone, some dogs become very distressed, suffering from an attachment disorder known as separation anxiety. Dogs who suffer from separation anxiety can’t learn to cope with being alone, and they express their anxiety by barking, howling, whining, chewing, soiling, and/or attempting to escape. The most effective treatment for a dog with separation anxiety is to accustom the dog to very short periods of time alone. While at the same time, you must pair the experience of being alone with something wonderful, such as his favorite treats. Also, make sure you keep your departures and arrivals low key so the dog doesn’t associate comings and goings with arousal and stress. Also, practice short absences and gradually build up the time you are gone. Finally, give your dog plenty of physical exercise before leaving your dog for lengthy periods of time, especially if you leave first thing in the morning. What you should not do is confuse your dog’s anxiety with revenge, spite, or dominance. Your dog is genuinely upset and distressed and needs your help. Punishment will only exacerbate the dog’s anxiety. Also, do not continue to confine your dog to a crate or room if the dog is injuring himself trying to escape. Only use the crate while you are gone if your dog sees it as a safe haven. Separation anxiety is a serious issue where it is best to consult a professional trainer.

Dog Fighting
Dog fighting is a sadistic “contest” in which two dogs—specifically bred, conditioned, and trained to fight—are placed in a pit (generally a small arena enclosed by plywood walls) to fight each other, for the spectators’ gambling and entertainment. Fights average nearly an hour in length and often last more than two hours. Dogfights end when one of the dogs is no longer willing or able to continue. Dogs used in these events often die of blood loss, shock, dehydration, exhaustion, or infection hours or even days after the fight. In addition to these dogfights, there are reports of an increase in unorganized, more spontaneous street fights in urban areas. Dog fighting and animal abuse are criminal activities and require police intervention. Call the Police or Animal Welfare if you see a dog fight or suspect an animal is being used for dog fighting.