Dogs

Housetraining A New Dog

Regardless of your new dog’s history, start with the assumption that they are not housetrained. Always approach house training from the dog’s perspective. Your dog does not understand that it is wrong to eliminate in the house!

Be Patient!
Dogs, like people, learn at different rates.

Feed your dog on a schedule
Instead of free feeding, feed your dog at set meal times. Most adult dogs do well with two meals a day, but puppies need more frequent meals. Stick to a high quality, dry dog food and keep your dog’s meal times as close to the same times each day as possible. Give them access to food for about 20 to 30 minutes at each meal. Remember to walk them after they eat!

Take your dog outside to eliminate as often as possible and reward them whenever they eliminate outside
If you are considering a young puppy, remember that they need to eliminate every hour. Regardless of your walk schedule always take your new dog outside after playing, napping, and about 20 minutes after eating. Try to use the same spot each time. Keep walks brief and encourage your dog to sniff (this is an important part of the canine elimination sequence). Praise the dog as soon as they begin to squat and as they eliminate. Do not play or take long walks with the dog until after they have eliminated outside.

Pay attention to your dog’s body language when inside
Behaviors such as pacing, whining, circling, excessive sniffing or squatting indicate that the dog may need to eliminate. If you catch your dog exhibiting any of these behaviors, interrupt the dog and immediately take them outside. If they eliminate outside, praise them profusely.

Catch them in the act!
If, and only if, you catch your dog eliminating in the house can you correct them. The correct must take place at the same time as the undesirable action (preferably as the act begins). The most effective correction is to startle the dog with an unpleasant stimulus (a loud noise, squirt of water, etc.) as soon as they begin the unwanted behavior. You can then redirect their behavior. This means that after interrupting them, you should immediately take them outside to eliminate. Praise them if they go outside. Remember to always use the weakest stimulus possible to interrupt your dog. Your goal is not to scare the dog, but to startle them.

Punishment
Punishment has no role in house training and can actually intensify the dog’s undesirable behaviors. Dogs make immediate associations.

Additional Housetraining Options

Crate Training
One of the first decisions you have is whether or not to use a crate. The crate has two main functions. First, it keeps your dog and your possessions safe while you are away, and second, it encourages your dog to inhibit the urge to eliminate.

For example, if you come home and find a puddle of urine on the floor, show it to your dog, and punish your dog (either physically or vocally), your dog will associate the punishment with you and the puddle of urine and not with the act of urinating in the house. This may seem like the same thing to you, but for your dog there is a huge difference between the act of urinating and a puddle of urine.

Since your dog does not understand that it was their act of urinating that contributed to the punishment, they may in the future cower or act guilty when you come home to find another puddle or urine on the floor. Your dog’s guilty behavior is merely canine submission and it is their way of telling you that they acknowledge your anger, but does not understand its cause.

In fact, punishing a dog for eliminating inside has been known to lead to other behavioral problems. A classic example is the dog who after repeatedly being punished for eliminating inside, develops coprophagia (the nasty habit of eating feces). In this case, the dog views the feces as the cause of punishment and attempts to get rid of it by eating it. Again, the dog did not understand that their defecating caused the punishment.

Clean any soiled areas with mild soap and an odor eliminator.
If your dog has an accident (and most will have at least one), getting rid of the underlying odor is crucial. Dogs use scent cues when deciding where to eliminate and the average dog as 215 million more scent receptors than you. Thus, even if you cannot smell that spot on the rug, chances are that your dog can. Never use an ammonia-based product to clean up after your dog. Many of these products just smell too much like urine for your dog to resist. Always place your dog in another room before cleaning up mess. You do not want this to become a game.

Health and Behavior
If your dog continues to eliminate inside after repeated attempts to house train or if your house trained dog begins to eliminate inside, they may have a medical problem or behavioral problem that needs to be addressed. First, have your dog thoroughly examined by your veterinarian (including urinalysis and fecal exam) to rule out any medical problems. If your dog is healthy and the problem persists, ask your veterinarian to refer you to a qualified animal behavior specialist.

An alternate to crate training is to confine your dog to one area of the house using a baby gate or door, when left unsupervised. Just make sure that the area is puppy proof. You can gradually expand their access to the rest of the house. If you use a crate remember the following: no dog should be crated for more than four consecutive hours! Your dog may still have accidents in the crate. The crate must be large enough for the dog to completely stand up and turn around in, and your ultimate goal is not to use the crate.

Remember, a crate should never be used for punishment!

Paper Training
Teaching a dog to eliminate indoors, even on paper, makes it more difficult to ultimately teach the dog to eliminate outdoors. If you do not have to paper train your dog, then don’t. This said, there are some circumstances when you might want to consider paper training. For example, if your dog is very young or very old and you can not take the dog outside to eliminate as frequently as they need, you may need to paper train. Small dogs can even be litter box trained. It is possible to housetrain a dog that has been paper trained, but it may take more time and vigilance on your part.

Grooming

Socialization to Grooming
Grooming sessions should always be fun, so be sure to schedule them when your dog’s relaxed, especially if he is the excitable type. Until your pet is comfortable being groomed, keep the sessions short—just 5 to 10 minutes. Gradually lengthen the time until it becomes routine for your dog. You can help him get comfortable being touched and handled by making a habit of petting every single part of your dog, including such potentially sensitive areas as the ears, tail, belly, back and feet. Most importantly of all–pile on the praise and offer your pooch a treat when the session is finished!

Trimming Nails
Your dog’s nails should just barely touch the ground when he walks. If your dog’s nails are clicking on the floor or getting snagged in the carpet, it’s time to trim his nails. Your vet or groomer should show you how to trim your dog’s nails the first time. They can also help you decide which type of trimmer would work best for your dog. You should always use trimmers designed for pets that are very sharp. When trimming, start at the tip of the nail and snip a little. Look at the cut edge of the nail. When you start to see pale pink tissue near the top of the cut edge, stop. Avoid cutting into the quick, which contains nerves and blood vessels. It is painful and will bleed easily. On white nails, the quick is the pink section. Be extra careful when cutting dark nails, because the quick is difficult to see. If the tip of the nail begins to bleed, apply pressure using styptic powder or a substitute such as baby powder, flour, or cotton. Avoid wiping the blood clot off the tip of the nail once the bleeding has stopped. Remember to trim the dewclaw nail, on the inside of the leg. Since it doesn’t touch the ground, it wears down less rapidly than the others. Trim nails once or twice a month. The quick will lengthen if you don’t trim the nail regularly, and long nails can cause traction problems or become ingrown.

Brushing
Regular grooming with a brush or comb will help keep your pet’s hair in good condition by removing dirt, spreading natural oils throughout her coat, preventing tangles and keeping his skin clean and irritant-free. Also, grooming time is a great time to check for fleas and flea dirt – those little black specks that indicate your pet is playing host to a flea family. Different brushes and brushing techniques are used for different breeds. Check with your vet to see what type of brush you should use, how often you should brush your dog, and what process you should use for brushing your dog.

Bathing
You should bath your dog every 3 months or so. Always use a mild, dog formula shampoo (never human shampoo). Before you bath your dog, give him a good brushing to remove all dead hair and mats. Then, place a rubber bath mat in the bathtub to provide secure footing, and fill the tub with about 3 to 4 inches of lukewarm water. Use a spray hose, pitcher, or cup to thoroughly wet your pet, taking care not to spray directly in his ears, eyes or nose. Next, gently massage in the label’s recommended amount of shampoo, working from head to tail. Finally, thoroughly rinse out all the shampoo, again, avoiding the ears, eyes and nose. Dry your pet with a large towel; don’t use a hair dryer on your pet as it will dry out his skin and can cause irritation.

Dental Hygiene
Home dental care is the first line of defense against periodontal disease in dogs, and the biggest weapon is the toothbrush. The brushing action of the toothbrush removes plaque. Ideally, brushing should be done daily, but a minimum of 3 to 5 times weekly is recommended. You should use a soft bristled toothbrush and veterinary approved dog formula toothpaste, not human toothpaste. Beef or chicken flavored toothpastes work well. You should make brushing your pet’s teeth a positive experience. Start early with your puppy if possible. The first step in the process is to have your pet get used to having you handle him around his mouth. When first touching the mouth you could put a tasty treat on your finger to make the experience positive for your pet. Once your pet is comfortable with this, begin rubbing the gums. Then gradually increase the time you spend playing with the mouth. Adult teeth start to come through when the puppy is between 4 and 7 months of age (you will find your dog’s puppy teeth on your floor if you look closely.) Some dogs, especially adult dogs that were not socialized to the toothbrushing process as a puppy, won’t allow their owners to brush their teeth.

Other than tooth brushing, several other approaches are available which may also help prevent dental disease. These include gels and rinses that are rubbed on the gums and treats, such as rawhides. There are also diets formulated to help reduce plaque; ideally these should be used along with brushing your dog’s teeth, not instead of.

Ear Cleaning
Caring for your pets’ ears is an important way to reduce the chance of ear infections and excess wax build up. Routine cleaning and at home examinations let you detect any infections or other problems early. Prompt treatment offers a better prognosis, reduces the potential for chronic disease or hearing loss, and gives earlier relief for any discomfort your dog may have. Ear cleaning starts with good general grooming. Excess, dirty, or matted hair should be removed from around the ear canal and the ear flap. To clean the inside of your dog’s ears, start by using a dog formulated ear cleaner. Soak a cotton ball thoroughly in the ear wash. Squeeze out excess ear wash. Place the cotton ball in your dog’s ear and gently rub up and down. Allow your dog to shake off excess moisture. This is important for preventing ear infections. If the ear canal looks abnormal, clean only the outside and consult a vet. How often you will need to clean depends on your dog’s breed, hair coat, activities, age, and the amount of ear wax he produces. Most dogs with normal ears should have a cleaning at least once a month. Others may need more frequent cleanings, especially those that swim or get their ears wet regularly.

Basic Supplies

Dish Ware
We recommend stainless steel, glass, or ceramic food and water bowls. Avoid plastic containers; toxins in the plastic and the porous material encourage bacterial build up.

Food
We recommend high quality, dry dog food twice a day for adult dogs. Young puppies should start out with frequent meals (3-4) and eventually move to two meals a day. Usually, by 4 months of age, a puppy can begin eating twice a day. Read the label of your chosen dog food for serving sizes. (Keep in mind that dog food companies are in the business of selling dog food! You might want to feed your dog slightly less then the recommendation on the label.) If you are going to change the brand of food, slowly change it over 1 to 2 weeks. The weaning process should look something like this:

First few days: 1 part new food, 3 parts old food Next few days: half new food, half old food
Final few days: 1 part old food, 3 parts new food. This will allow your dog’s system to adjust to the new brand. If they should vomit or have diarrhea, go back to the original brand.

Wet food should only be used in situations where your dog needs to gain weight or to encourage eating. If the wet food is simply being used to encourage eating, mix a small amount of wet food into the dry food at each meal. Gradually stop adding the wet food. You can add water to the dry food to moisten it up and bring out flavor as you wean the wet food out. Once you have a healthy, eating dog, there is no need for wet food.

As your dog ages and gets into his geriatric years, you will need to switch him to a senior food that is specially formulated to be low in fat and salt for a healthy heart, lower in calories to help combat obesity since they are less active, lower in protein to help the kidneys and liver, and higher in fiber for the bowels to prevent constipation.

Water
Your dog should always have access to fresh water – changed at least 2 times a day. We recommend filtered, purified, or bottled water. Dogs, like humans, are impacted when impurities and toxins are found in their drinking water.

Places to Sleep
Every dog needs to have at least one bed. If you have enough room, you can have a bed in the bedroom where you sleep and in the main room where you spend most of your time. If your dog has his own bed, he is less likely to want to sleep on the furniture or in bed. A dog’s bed is a source of comfort. If he is going to be in a strange environment, you should try to take his bed.

Leashes & Collars
Dogs should have a buckle collar that has an id tag. You should be able to put two fingers between the collar and the dog’s neck. If it’s too tight, you may end up choking the dog; if it’s too loose the dog can slip out. Make sure your dog’s collar is fit properly at all times. There are a variety of training collars on the market. Consult your vet or a trainer to see if a training collar such as a Gentle Leader or a Martingale Collar is right for your dog.

The leash should be 4 to 6 feet long so that you can retain control of the dog. Retractable leashes are not recommended as they do not give you as much control over your dog. In public, your dog should be on a leash at all times. Even the best trained dogs, can be scared and run out into traffic. If you have a fenced in yard, obviously your dog can be off leash but you need to make sure the gate or door is closed at all times and there are no gaps in the fence so the dog cannot run out.

Toys
Toys are a great way to provide your dog with the mental and physical stimulation that make for a happier and healthier pet. There are a variety of different toys available today. You will need to experiment with a variety of toys to discover your dog’s preference. Kong brand toys and other toys that involve a mental challenge are highly recommended . A Kong is a hollow toy that you fill with treats and top of with a dollop of peanut butter. (There are even Kong recipes online!) Your dog has to lick away the peanut butter and bat the Kong around so that the treats inside fall out. You can even freeze the Kong for a longer activity. Kongs are a great mental challenge for your dog and can keep him occupied for a long time depending on how much of a “Kong expert” they are/become.

If your dog enjoys tearing apart toys, make sure he does not get to the “squeaker” that is often inside a toy. Your dog can choke on the squeaker. Be cautious of what toys you leave in the dogs crate while you are away as well. Rope toys, or toys that don’t have any part a dog can swallow, are best.

Basic Needs

Lifetime Commitment
Adopting your dog is a lifelong commitment. Animals develop a bond with you and your family. Dogs are sensitive to their environment; major changes such as switching owners and households can be dramatic and very stressful. You need to make sure you are ready to provide food, water, shelter, medical care and love throughout the life of your dog – this could be for 10 to 15 years. Dogs mature and age at much different rates; usually according to size and breed. It is commonly held that dogs age 7 years for every year that a human does. However, this serves as only a rough guide when converting and calculating your dog’s age as dogs grow up very rapidly in their early years and then slow down. It is generally believed that the smaller dog breeds, the longer they live. Larger breeds, such as Great Danes and Wolfhounds, rarely live beyond 9 years.

You also need to make sure you are committed to keeping your dog as a trusted and loved companion as changes occur in your life (moving, pregnancy, job changes, etc.) There are many resources to utilize during these times of change that can make transitions smooth and comfortable for everyone.

No matter what age or how healthy you are, make sure you have preparations made for your dog if you become unable to care for him. This information should be incorporated into your will, or at minimum, a letter should be kept with your important papers. Make sure the caretaker knows they are responsible for your dog and that they should be contacted if something should happen.

An Enriching Environment
You need to make sure there are plenty of positive stimuli in your dog’s environment. This would include changing out his toys, giving him treats that may or may not involve a challenge, playing with and petting him frequently, and giving him plenty of outside time but ultimately being kept inside as a part of the family. Dogs are pack animals; it is important to make them feel like part of the pack (your family). You should spend 15 – 30 minutes, 3 times a day walking and playing with your dog at the very least. Always make sure you pet and praise your dog whenever you have the chance, even if it is a quick pat.

Exercise
Dogs need plenty of exercise and socialization. Dogs enjoy a long walk in the park, visiting with the neighborhood dogs, riding in the car or sitting with you outside of the local coffee shop. A sufficient amount of exercise will prevent many unwanted behaviors. A tired dog is often a good dog! Each type of dog has different needs; it important to understand if your dog is a working dog, a retriever, or a herder and then develop an exercise routine that matches his personality. When exercising your dog, keep in mind that young puppies cannot handle much more then a walk around the block. Young puppies should not go running. At around 1 year of age, your dog can begin running with you. Animals, like humans, need to build up to longer, more intense exercise regimes. As your dog approaches his geriatric years, it is important to then decrease exercise and not force your geriatric dog to keep the same activity level he had during his prime.

Potty training
Your puppy will not automatically know it is inappropriate to soil in the house. It is your job to teach him. Regardless of age and background, housetraining is attainable for all dogs. Proper training requires time, patience, and consistency on your part. Some dogs will pick up housetraining easily, while others may take more time.

Several strategies exist for potty training: crate, paper, pads, litter box, etc. Crate training is often the best choice- while learning not to soil in the house, your dog also learns to accept the crate as a safe, secure area. Dogs instinctively want a safe “den,” or resting area and usually learn not to soil it. Many crate trained dogs will be less anxious when kenneled for any reason – at the groomer, veterinarian, or boarding facility, because they are familiar with a crate or kennel environment. In order to accomplish these positive feelings about the crate, you should make sure the crate is a very comfortable place for your dog. Place a soft blanket inside and a favorite toy (that doesn’t have any pieces that can be swallowed). Give your dog treats when he is in the crate and don’t only have him go in the crate when you leave. The crate is a great tool to use when you need a break while at home (making dinner, cleaning the house, etc.) Never, ever use the crate for punishment. You want your dog to associate the crate with positive feelings.

It is very important to choose a crate size and type that is appropriate for your dog and use the crate properly. Your dog should be able to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably in the crate. You also want to make sure the crate is not too big. If your dog can eliminate on one side of the crate, and lay down on the other, the purpose of the crate (which is to not allow the dog to eliminate in his resting area) is defeated. Do not leave young puppies crated all day. Puppies 6-8 weeks old should be crated for no more than 4 hours at a time. As the puppy grows, crating time can gradually be lengthened. The general rule is the puppy can be crated for however many months old they are, plus one hour. So for a 5 month old puppy, he can be crated for 6 hours. Paper or litter box training is appropriate for small dogs that will not have regular access to the outdoors. This is a great option if you live in a high rise building.

Regardless of what training strategy you use, your dog should immediately be taken to the designated area immediately upon waking in the morning, then frequently throughout the day, and finally, right before bedtime. If you have a puppy, he will also need to go out prior to playing, after playing or eating, and as many other times as you can. Be sure to also watch your dog’s body language. Behaviors such as pacing, whining, circling, excessive sniffing or squatting indicate that your dog may need to eliminate. If you catch your dog exhibiting any of these behaviors, interrupt the dog and immediately take him outside. If he eliminates outside, praise him profusely and give him a treat.

If your dog/puppy has an “accident” somewhere other then the designated area, immediately clean it up using an odor remover (so he doesn’t feel compelled to go in that area again). If you catch your puppy in the act of having an “accident”, take him immediately to the designated soil area. Never discipline or punish the puppy if you find an “accident” after the fact. He will not understand what the scolding is for. The act of punishing a dog for having an accident in the house can bring about behavior problems.

Plan to crate your dog or puppy while you are away for as long as it takes until you feel comfortable leaving them with the run of the house. For most puppies, this will occur around 1 year of age.

Obedience Training
Every dog deserves a great start, which is why it is highly encouraged that you attend a dog training class as soon as possible after getting your dog. Regardless of age, breed, or where you got the dog from, every dog and owner can benefit from training. Attending an obedience training class is crucial in preventing future behavior problems by socializing dogs, developing the human to animal bond, rewarding them for appropriate behavior, and teaching basic commands that will help you and your dog communicate for a lifetime. Obedience training is not only for the dog, it’s for the owner too. So be sure to take your dog to an obedience training class where you are a part of the training. “Boot camp” type training can be appropriate with more difficult training issues. Training continues for the life of your puppy, and we encourage you to continue to take classes to educate yourself and your dog to ensure that you will both live many happy years together.

Secured Traveling
It is very dangerous to drive with a dog in the back of a pick-up truck. Not only can he be accidentally thrown from a truck as the driver swerves or stops, but flying debris can injure or kill your dog. It is recommended that any animal traveling in a vehicle be placed in a secured area (such as a crate, carrier, dog seatbelt, or the back of your car if it has a wall so they cannot get projected into the front seats if you have to slam on the brakes.)

Never leave your dog unattended in public (tied to a tree or post while you go into a store/coffee shop). This is a perfect opportunity for your dog to get stolen or mistreated.

Introducing a New Dog into your Household

Households with a Dog
First of all, you need to realize that your dog will not always get along with every other dog. Dogs are like people; they are drawn to some, while others may take some getting used to, and still others may not ever get along (they may tolerate each other but won’t be the best of friends)Also, prior to introducing a new dog into your family, you need to be ready to accept changes in your current dog. As hard as it may be to watch an animal you thought of as dominant take a lesser position in the household, it is vital that you step back and let the animals determine their social status. Your current dog may be quite relieved to relinquish the stressful position of leader to a new dog. Unless you believe that one of the animals may be inured, let them work things out and then accept the structure they establish. Here is how you should introduce them:

Make sure you pick a neutral, quiet place, where there are not toys or treats, to introduce them
Feed and exercise both dogs and allow them each to go to the bathroom prior to the introduction
Make sure both dogs are leashed and both handlers have a tight grip on the leashes
Slowly allow the dogs to approach each other
Let the two dogs sniff each other for several minutes while that handlers observe the body language
Interrupt any signs of aggression with a spritz of water, a loud noise, or by pulling the dogs away from each other by the leashes. NEVER attempt to separate the dogs with your hands. This is how a lot of people get bit.
If the dogs seem to enjoy each other, let them play together for a while.
Take the dogs on a long walk together
Eventually, bring them both back to your home. Keep them on the leashes until you are comfortable with their behavior. Make sure there are no toys or treats on the floor.
Gradually introduce toys to both of the dogs, making sure there are plenty around (not just one).
If you are confident that the dogs are getting along, allow the dogs to be off leash but supervised.
Increase the time they are together until they are fully trusted to be unleashed together- it can take days, weeks, or even months until you feel comfortable.
Keep the dogs separated when you are unable to supervise, until you are confident that no harm will be done.

Advantages of a Multi Dog Household
There are many advantages of having a multiple dog household. Two or more dogs that are compatible can provide exercise for each other. This works best when they are of similar size and activity level (a puppy will only annoy a laid back adult dog – not “pep him up”), and are free of physical problems that could cause pain or irritability. Two or more dogs can also provide each other with dog-to-dog social interaction. This daily contact with their own species tends to keep their ability to communicate with other dogs in good shape. It also keeps away boredom. Finally, humans who enjoy watching dog behavior will enjoy seeing the family dogs interact. Since you also get to see the dog-to-dog relationships develop over time, your understanding of your dogs can grow by watching how they react to each other. Your ability to read canine body language can be enhanced.

Households with a Cat
Introducing a dog to a cat is a much slower process then introducing a dog to another dog. There is a serious risk involved if you introduce these two animals incorrectly. Be sure that you go slow, and follow all the steps outlined below. The ultimate goal is to have your cat be confident that the dog does not pose a threat. Once this is established, the opportunity for a wonderful friendship can begin. Here is a how you should introduce them:

Keep them separated for a week or so– when you bring your new dog home, have a separate space set up for the cat with a litter box, toys, water, bed and a scratching post. A spare bedroom would be perfect.
Scent is the all-important factor in cat to dog introductions. Before letting the pets have visual contact with each other, let them smell each other’s bedding.
Encourage interaction through the door – Place your cat’s food near the door of her room so she stays near the door. Your dog will smell and hear her through the door. Give your dog treats near the door of the new cat’s room so that he associates it with good things.
Let the cat roam alone – Put your dog in the bedroom, and let the cat roam around the house. This lets your cat explore and get exercise. Then put your cat back in her room and let the dog walk around and smell her without having to see the new cat. This is a great way to get them used to each other’s scent.
Reward obedience on the dog’s part with a treat.
Now it is time for the introduction. Make sure your dog is wearing a properly fit collar and leash. Have another family member bring in the cat and have them sit down with the cat on their lap at an opposite end of the room. Repeat this step several times until both the cat and the dog are tolerating each other without signs of fear or aggression.
Next move the animals closer with the dog still on the leash and the cat gently held in a lap. If the cat does not like to be held use a crate or carrier. If the cat becomes frightened, increase the distance between the animals and progress more slowly.
Initially, the dog should be wearing a collar and a leash when the cat is present so that any attempt to bark at or chase can be stopped instantly. Praise and treats should be lavished on the dog when he is calm and obedient in the cat’s presence.

Keep the dog and cat separated when you are not home until you are certain that the animals are safe around each other unsupervised. Be sure the cat does not have to pass through or by the dog’s area to get to his food, water, or litter box. If your dog enjoys raiding the litter box, place a gate across the entrance of the room where the litter box is kept to allow the cat to pass through but not the dog.

Households with Children
From the start, children should be taught how to properly approach a dog. The child should be taught some basic dog body language so that they will know to leave the dog alone when his fur is raised, he is barring his teeth, his tail is between his legs, or he is growling. Your child should be taught how to properly pet a dog, not to pull its tail or ears, not to run away screaming from a dog, not to try to play with a sleeping, eating, or nursing dog, or try to take his toys or food or treats away. A child should also not play with a dog unsupervised. The key to a harmonious household is to supervise the interactions between the dog and the young child. Children can share in the responsibility of caring for your dog; just make sure that an adult is ultimately responsible for the care of the dog.

Households with Senior Citizens
Dogs can make great companions for senior citizens. The most important thing for seniors is to make sure they can provide the care and support required in owning a dog. This includes being able to walk and manage the dog. The temperament and size of the dog needs to be taken into consideration when choosing a dog for a senior. Also, it is important for a senior citizen to establish who will take care of the dog if they become unable to do so themselves.

Allergies
Controlling allergies takes some work, but it is definitely doable if someone is committed to it. The allergens your pet carries are associated with its skin, hair follicles, and saliva. Dander, a naturally occurring combination of skin cells and saliva, is most often the cause of pet allergies. Dander is shed from your dog and embeds itself in carpeting, furniture, and draperies and stays in the environment for a long time causing allergic reactions. It is the protein in this dander that causes the reactions. Some dogs shed more of this dander then others, making them less tolerable then other dogs.

The problem of allergies can be solved by making some minor adjustments to your environment. People who have allergies are rarely allergic to just one particular thing. Since the allergic person is sensitive to more than one thing, it is the “Total Allergen Level” that causes a reaction. Whether or not a person has symptoms depends on how many allergens are in the environment. An individual who is allergic to animals may exhibit no noticeable symptoms when the total exposure is below his allergy threshold level. The goal should be to minimize exposure to allergens that exceed your tolerance threshold and trigger attacks. Air purifiers, vacuums with air filters, and keeping your environment clean and free of dust and hair are important in controlling your allergies. If you have allergies, you might want to consider not letting your dog sleep on your pillows or bed.

Feeding a high quality diet greatly reduces dander production due to the dog’s skin being healthier. There are food, treats, and shampoos on the market that reduce shedding, thus reducing dander production. There are also de-shedding tools such as the Furminator that can reduce the allergic reactions as well.

Talk to your physician about medications that are available to help with allergies.

Dog Proof your House
Make sure your house does not have any items that are harmful to your dogs. This can include poisonous plants, plastic bags, and chemical cleaners. Chemicals in household cleaners can be dangerous to your dog. Please check the labels. The ASPCA Poison Control Hotline (888.426.4435) can provide pet owners with additional and valuable information about household chemicals and plants that can be harmful to your pets. If you have a puppy, you will want to make sure that all your valuables and small items that the puppy could get into are off the floor.

In Case of Emergency
Make sure you have the following phone numbers in an easily visible and accessible place:

The name, number and address of your vet – If you are on vacation, call before you leave to authorize treatment and payment in case something happens while you are gone.
The name, number and address of the closest emergency vet (24 hour).
Important medical information – Medications, allergies, etc.
The person’s information (name, number) of who to call in case something happens to you.